Buying a used RV, advice from my (RV dealer) dad, John Henken

A number of years ago (before his death) I asked my father, John Henken, for his advice on buying a used RV.  My dad had been buying and selling used RVs for a long time as a car dealer, and his “semi” retirement business was a used RV lot.

Going through some files I've found the notes I took on his advice, and I thought I’d share what he told me for all of you thinking about buying a used RV.

THIS IS STUFF THE DEALERS AND SALESPEOPLE KNOW AND MIGHT NOT TELL YOU!

If you’re not an experienced RVer, RENT BEFORE YOU BUY.  My dad estimated that about half of all people who think they’ll like RVing decide it’s not for them, and said that the biggest buying mistakes he saw over the years were made by people who didn’t rent first.  Rent first, and try out the type of RV you’re considering buying before you take the permanent plunge.

Many people getting into RVing start out small, with a tent trailer, for example and work up to a larger RV. 

Think of an RV as two parts, the mechanical chassis and the coach unit.  Some RVs are simply a coach unit, like a trailer, 5th wheel, or camper, and you provide the mechanical chassis in the vehicle you’re using for transport, like your truck.  A motorhome is both chassis and coach.

A camping trailer is the lightest, smallest unit that can be pulled with a small pickup truck or van.  If it’s over 19-20 feet you’ll need a 3/4 or 1-ton pickup.

A camper fits on a pickup.  The disadvantage of a camper on a pickup is that if you want to use the truck separately it takes some time to disconnect it.  Campers also have a tendency to be top-heavy.

The advantage of a trailer or a 5th wheel is that you can disconnect it and use the pulling vehicle separately. 

The most stable (to drive) truck and trailer combination is the 5th wheel with truck.  The 5th wheel uses a hitch which mounts over the rear wheels of the pickup in the truck bed, so that the weight from the trailer is squarely over the driving axle of the truck (modern pickup trucks are generally rear-wheel drive).

RVs come self-contained and non-self-contained (basically that means with or without a bathroom).  Small campers (8-foot) and tent trailers are generally non-self-contained.  Most other modern trailers and 5th wheels are self-contained. 

Motorhomes come in two classes, A and C.  Class A is a complete unit built on a chassis.  Class C is built on a cut-away van.  A “diesel-pusher” is a Class A motorhome that runs on diesel.  (Diesel-pushers tend to be high-end motorhomes and, new, can cost as much as a regular home!)

Many people prefer the Class C to drive, my dad said, because when you’re driving you’re positioned in the seat the same way you are in an SUV or a passenger car.  

A Class A drives more like a bus, and is typically built higher, so it’s a little harder getting in and out of.  A “basement model” Class A motorhome is built up to create storage under the floor which is ideal for longer items, like skis.

If you want to live in your RV, as “snowbirds” do, go for a larger motorhome or a 5th wheel, my dad advised.

SOME ESSENTIAL THINGS TO LOOK FOR WHEN YOU’RE USED RV SHOPPING

Make sure the RV hasn’t been – the term my dad used was “misbehaved.”  Take a look at the general condition of the rig.  Does it look like it has been abused?

Make sure it hasn’t been smoked in heavily or fouled by an animal.  Stand inside and sniff for smells.  It is extremely difficult to get smells out of an RV, especially smells from cigarettes, cats and dogs, and especially if the animal has peed in the unit.  A “smoked-in” RV is typically worth $1,000 less than a smoke-free one.

Look for water stains in the roof.  Clues to water leaks are streaks on the ceiling and/or peeling on the inside of the coach.  Water leaks need repair.

Check the floors very carefully.  Walk and bounce on them, especially in the bathroom.

Check all seams around the roof, walls, and inside cabinets for leaks.

Look for leaks around the toilet stool and sinks.  ESPECIALLY check the floor very carefully in the toilet area.

Check the coach for signs of delamination of the walls.  RV coach walls are made of layers laminated together.  If moisture gets into the walls, they can delaminate, causing warping on the outside of the coach.  To see delamination you need to look at the outside of the vehicle, as this generally doesn’t show on the inside.  Delamination can be difficult to repair.

In general, structural damage to the exterior of an RV is expensive to repair.

RVs may be wood or aluminum framed.  Aluminum units are more expensive, but a little better built, said my dad.

Wood in RVs can develop rot caused by moisture that gets into the unit.  Changes in temperature are a big cause of moisture condensation.  (Help prevent this with a log-voltage motorhome heater.  Also don’t cover your motorhome tightly with tarps when you’re storing it.  That creates moisture under the tarp.)

Always have the brakes of any used RV you are considering buying inspected.  ALWAYS.  Some drivers tend to ride RV brakes hard, causing excessive wear.

Check the tires for cracks on the sidewalls.  These are caused by exposure to heat, and can even appear on tires with low mileage or tires that still have 80-90 percent tread.  Tires with cracks MUST be replaced.  They are dangerous.  (Tire cracks are the reason some RVs have tire protectors.)

Check the engine, transmission and differential.  Look for oil leaks.  Turn on the engine and pull out the oil dip stick while the rig is running.  Watch to see if any smoke comes out of the hole.  This indicates excessive engine wear.

WEAR AND TEAR AND VALUE

The age of an RV was less a concern to my dad the dealer than how it had been treated.  A unit that’s several years older might be a better value than a newer one if it’s been better cared for than a newer one, he told me.

Generally, my dad said, annual motorhome (Class A or C, the RVs with chassis) mileage is less than a regular passenger car or pickup.  Passenger cars average about 20,000 miles a year.  The average on a typical motorhome is about half that.  (In other words, if the mileage on the motorhome you’re looking at is a lot more for its age than the average, you’ll probably want to ask why.)

Remember that the weight and size of the unit means that the equipment has more wear and tear on it when it’s being used.

And because of the size of the unit, the life expectancy of the running gear is not as high as that of a passenger car.

“Lived-in” units (ones that have been lived in constantly) are worth less.  Instead, my dad advised, look for something which has been just used for recreational purposes, and which has been taken care of.

There are websites which will tell you the wholesale and retail book value of an RV, but that’s only a guide.  It doesn’t tell you how the usage affects price, it’s just an average.  A nice unit may be worth a lot more, and one in rough shape may be worth a lot less.

My dad also said there are websites which will tell you if the unit has been in a major accident.  All you need is the serial number or license number.  I don’t have the links, but your search engine probably does.

Pricewise, my dad said, the best time to buy your RV is late fall and early winter.  That’s when dealers are most likely to give you a deal.  The worst time to buy is early spring.

(John Henken was a well-known and well-respected Washington State car dealer who was highly regarded by customers and other dealers for his expertise and honesty.  He passed away in 2012.)